jacket-making tips

Stitch; don't fuse
Fusing is gluing pieces together. It is often done on cheaper pieces. Make sure the full canvas chest plate that defines jacket's shape is floating. It should only be attached at the top to allow for better movement. Cheaper pieces tend to have it fused completely to the fabric.

Rope the shoulders
Roping is when there is a roll of the sleeve piece at the shoulder seam instead of the sleeve being flush with the back and front panel of the jacket. An aesthetic detail to give the silhouette more structure.

Pick stitching along the lapel
A classic bespoke detail.

Boutonniere loop
Another classic detail.

Bemberg lining
A classic lining choice for high quality suits.  Bemberg was created in Germany, and is silky soft to the touch, breathable, anti-cling and resists wrinkling.